Hobart's steadfastly Anglo-Saxon fare can't compare with the mainland cities' ethnically eclectic range of cuisines, but its food is becoming more cosmopolitan; the greatest diversity of restaurants and cafés is found along the Elizabeth Street strip in North Hobart. Superlative seafood
can be had throughout the city, but especially in the restaurants down by the docks. Fishing boats moor at Victoria Dock and sell their catch direct to the public. The food stalls at Saturday's Salamanca Market are excellent - particularly those run by the Hmong from Laos.
Bar Celona , 23 Salamanca Square. Trendy Spanish style café/bar; licensed. Daily 9am-midnight.
Da Angelo Ristorante , 47 Hampden Rd, Battery Point (tel 03/6223 7011). A great village spot for a more upmarket Italian meal plus gourmet pizzas; tasty food, generous portions and good service. Licensed. Dinner nightly.
Fish Frenzy , Elizabeth Street Pier. A stylish modern fish café - order your food at the counter and find a seat. The food is cheap and terrific, the staff are friendly and it's licensed. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Jackman & McGross , 57-59 Hampden Rd, Battery Point. Stylish eat-in bakery that fits in with the upmarket village atmosphere of Battery Point. Excellent pastries and baked savouries, and gourmet baguettes and rolls. Mon-Fri 7.30am-6pm, Sat 7.30am-5pm.
Kaos Cafe , 237 Elizabeth St, North Hobart. Trendy, gay-friendly coffee spot, with groovy music and magazines to read. Focaccias , real fruit muffins and cakes plus delicious all-day breakfast. BYO. Mon noon-8pm, Tues-Fri noon-midnight, Sat 10am-10pm.
La Cuisine , 85 Bathurst St, and the Trafalgar Centre at 110 Collins St. Two café-patisseries serving great cappuccino and excellent pastries, plus mounds of healthy salad. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9.30am-1.30pm.
Machine , 12 Salamanca Square. This quirky combination 1950s retro café-laundry with outside seating is a good cheap place to come for a coffee and join the city's young trendies (often with babies in tow). Mon-Sat 8am-6pm, Sun 9am-6pm.
Mako , Constitution Dock. Takeaway seafood from a boat moored in the dock; cheap and reasonable fish and chips. Daily 10am-8pm.
Marti Zucco , 364 Elizabeth St, North Hobart (tel 03/6234 9611). Italian restaurant serving imaginative dishes, including fish, schnitzels and thick-crust pizzas. Large and very popular, with a casual atmosphere; licensed and BYO. Lunch Thurs-Sat, dinner daily from 5.30pm.
Mit Zitrone , 333 Elizabeth St, North Hobart (tel 03/6234 8113). Chic award-winning café-restaurant, very much in the Melbourne style, with an innovative, cosmopolitan menu. If the delicious main dishes are out of your range (around $18), there's a cake selection and excellent coffee. BYO. Mon-Sat 10am till late.
Mummy's Coffee Shop , 38 Waterloo Crescent, Battery Point. Trendy café; it's best feature is its range of delicious cakes, but there are also main meals from the Contemporary Australian menu. Licensed and open late. Mon-Thurs & Sun until midnight, Fri & Sat until 2am.
Mures Fish Centre , Victoria Dock. Set among yachts and fishing boats, this two-level food centre (open daily) houses three restaurants, a fishmonger, a bakery (great scallop pies) and a café. Mures Upper Deck (tel 03/6231 1999) is an upmarket restaurant which has lovely harbour views; Mures Lower Deck (tel 03/6231 2121) has bistro food, with cheaper prices; Orizuru (tel 03/6231 1790; closed Sun) serves authentic sushi - their salmon is delicious.
Orient Express , 147A Little Collins St. Good, cheap servings of Malaysian, Indian and Thai food; there's a small eat-in area, but the emphasis is on takeaways. Closed Sat & Sun.
Palette's Studio Café , 14 Davey St. A handy spot to recharge, right near the Travel and Information Centre and the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, and located below an artist's studio. Mon-Fri 10am-4pm.
Renown Milkbar , 337 Elizabeth St, North Hobart. A Hobart institution whose windows are full of imported chocolates. Good for a coffee or snack after a movie at the nearby cinema. Daily 9am-10.30pm.
Retro Café , 31 Salamanca Place. Relaxed, light and airy place serving the best espresso in town, plus amazingly frothy cappuccinos and wonderful breakfasts. A good place to find out what's on - notices and flyers cover one wall. Outside tables popular on market day (Sat). Mon-Sat 8am-6pm, Sun 8.30am-6pm.
Shipwright's Arms Hotel , cnr Colville and Trumpeter streets, Battery Point. Old pub, popular with the yachtie crowd. Dishes up a legendary fresh seafood platter.
Sisco's on the Pier , Murray Street Pier (tel 03/6223 2059). Waterfront Spanish-Mediterranean restaurant guarantees a fine, though pricey, feast. Licensed.
Vanadol's , 353 Elizabeth St, North Hobart (tel 03/6234 9307). Popular, casual place serving Thai, Indonesian and Malaysian food. Very affordable; BYO. Booking advised. Open Tues-Sun from 6pm.
Zanskar Café , 39 Barrack St. Laid-back place for serious vegetarians and vegans, serving delicious food. There's a warm community atmosphere and plenty of useful notice boards, while the feel is spacious with a gallery level, and clean wood decor. Mon-Fri 9am-9pm.